Bohol: The Island of Chocolate Hills and Tarsiers

Loboc River

Bohol may be just one of the several thousands of islands that make up the Philippines, but it’s one that should not be overlooked. While it may not compare to the stunning scenery of El Nido on Palawan, the island is rich with history, an interesting variety of landscapes and wildlife, beautiful jungles, and some of the friendliest people I’ve met on my travels.

Arriving by ferry from Cebu, I was greeted at the wharf in Tagbilaran City, the provincial capital, by the usual throng of taxi and tricycle riders who tend to mob tourists looking for potential customers. My original plan was to take the bus to my accommodation, but eventually gave in to the pressure after a very determined young driver followed me all the way to the end of the pier asking if I needed a ride. When I asked where his car was parked, he pointed to a ruddy-looking motorbike that looked way too small for me and my big backpack. “Are you sure we can fit everything on there?” I nervously asked, having never ridden on a motorbike in my life, never mind with a complete stranger. “Yes, yes, it will be okay,” he nodded with an optimistic smile. I hopped on and we were off.

Loboc River SwingWe rode through the countryside past rice fields, old churches, groups of waving, smiling kids, and dodged the occasional chicken or dog that decided to stray out onto the road. The driver, Brian, was great, pointing out different points of interest and explaining their importance. About 45 minutes later we arrived at Fox and the Firefly Cottages in central Bohol. Located outside the nearby town of Loboc, the hostel was in the countryside in a pretty remote area next to a slow-moving river. Out here, the night air was filled only with the sound of frogs and crickets. It was a relaxing spot, and the owners and the locals living in the neighborhood were very nice! And being right next to the river, it was a great place to swim and cool off during the heat of the day.

Panglao Island

The next morning I caught a ride on a jeepney (an old converted WWII US Army jeep which provides the most popular form of public transportation in the PI) and made my way down to Panglao Island on Bohol’s south end. This is where some of the nicest white sand and palm fringed beaches in the province are found, granted it’s also the most touristy as the coastline is congested with hotels and resorts. Alona Beach is the most popular, but I decided to go to Dumaluan Beach with a nice German couple I met on the jeepney as we heard it was less crowded. The only way onto the beach was by going through one of the resorts, which was packed with Filipinos on holiday, but we easily escaped the crowds by simply walking a few hundred feet up the shoreline. Apparently the diving is really good off the coast here (the Philippines in general is supposed to be amazing for diving), which made me wish I had my PADI certification!

Chocolate Hills After a nice day at the beach, I left my new friends and headed back inland to the island’s most famous feature, the Chocolate Hills. The symmetrical grass-covered hills get their name when they turn a brownish color during the dryer times of the year. Many people, myself included, would say they resemble something out of a scene in a Super Mario game. It’s considered one of the best things to do in the Philippines, and while interesting to look at, there’s really not a whole lot else to do here. Still worth a look though, especially if you come at sunset!

Tarsier

Another famous curiosity is the Philippine tarsier, one of the world’s smallest primates which are endemic to the Philippines and are mostly found on Bohol. These odd-looking critters are an endangered species and are very hard to find in the wild, so we went to one of the nearby sanctuaries to see if we could see some. We ended up not seeing just one, but several of the little primates hiding in the trees and bushes around the park. They really are bizarre looking, with huge eyes and extremely long hind legs and fingers. Since their eyeballs are immovable, they also have the ability to rotate their head 180 degrees! Cute, but also kind of creepy, they reminded me of gremlins.

Boholanos

Two days was not enough time to spend on Bohol. While the island may look small on the map, it takes a few hours to cross and it’s rumored there are several beautiful hidden places that many travelers often overlook, places I would have loved to have visited if I had more time!

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